A Difference Made to Get Better from the Worst: My 20-hour Ordeal on the Worst Train in China
March 11th, 2010 by adahhzyThe worst train that I had ever taken set off at about 3:00p.m. on February 20, 2010 at the very peak travel period of the so-called Spring Festival transport rush. It was the Saturday before the first work week when most people came back to work from Western and Middle-eastern China to Eastern China.

Now let me list the dire conditions of this temporarily utilized train.
First, the train was way overloaded. There were more than 90 passengers (not including small babies) who bought a standing ticket whereas the number of seats was only 120 in one compartment. There were people in every conceivable corner of the train! I even started thinking about renovating the train so they could hang people on the ceiling or walls!
Second, hot water for drinking became unavailable just several hours after we boarded the train. There were mothers who needed hot water to prepare the formula for their babies to drink. Holding babies less than 1 year old on average in their arms and sitting on the floor of the over-crowded aisle, they looked helpless and the only solution was to use bottled mineral water to make some cold formula drink for their babies on a winter day.

Third, the train attendant of our compartment, a young lad with acnes on his face, never showed up again after some male passengers jumped together to make noises in order to get him opening the windows to let some air in when the train paused at a temporary stop for 2 hours. Because there were no air-conditioners, ventilation was really poor unless passengers kept opening the windows when the train stopped and shutting them down when it moved again. This repetitious practice could drive people crazy for the train paused ad hoc for more than a dozen times!
Next, all the lights went off at night so it was completely dark, which made it very easy for thieves to get their jobs done. Ironically, when all the passengers had decided to immerge themselves silently in this complete darkness, some loud disco music started to be broadcasted from midnight to about 2:00a.m. Was this an act of vandalism conducted by the young train attendant when he felt bored in his nice clean rest room?
An annoying food cart selling distasteful and roughly cooked meals kept going back and forth through the standing crowd even at 2:00am. Who would buy meals in early morning? Each time the cart passed, it stirred up a great turmoil among the standing passengers. Standing passengers needed to climb up the seats in order to spare some space for the food cart. Children cried and adults grumbled. This ridiculous schedule of the food cart had pushed most people to an edgy state. The cart may have been seized by the angry passengers and the service people may even have been beaten up by the resentful. My imagination dared not to go on.
Then some deliberate black humor happened in the compartment at around 3:00a.m. The train stopped at a station and some passengers squeezed themselves in this packed-out compartment. One of the 2 toilets of the compartment was occupied by 3 passengers who decided to stay there over night despite the unpleasant smell. These people knew it profoundly that the toilet was actually the least crowded place on that train. Usually, train attendants didn’t even bother to drive these people out because they would come into the washing room again anyway. A foreseeable but helpless consequence was that more than 200 people lined up to use 1 toilet. This toilet could be called the most used toilet in the world if there was such a record.
Finally, the train had been delayed for 4 hours. There was no formal apology notices except that an informal announcement was broadcasted when the train stopped for the first time for about 2 hours.
I do not like making complaints but all these tiny things added up and it came to a point that I couldn’t neglect the bad service I had received. If I just got off the train like the rest of the passengers, I may not even talk about my ordeal on this train with my friends. But what about the mothers and the babies who needed hot water for making drinks on the next similar train? Would they have to drink cold formula again? I just couldn’t forget the helpless and tired looks on those mothers’ faces. It was time to change, even a little. I suddenly remembered a hotline number for making complaints about the railway system.
I got this hotline number (010-5184 3418) based in Beijing in late January accidentally when I was surfing on the Internet. So I dialed this number with little hope for having the current situation changed at around 8:00a.m the next morning with many seemingly calm eyes staring at me. They were actively speculating the outcome of the call, probably negative from their passive point of view. They have got used to this unfair treatment during Spring Festival transport rush so my attempt to break this ridiculous loop seemed feeble and naive. But I still wanted to do this for them and for myself. In my call, I used a very clear structure and listed the above conditions in a priority order.
The outcome of this complaint was so surreal that I even doubted the realness of it. I never expected that the railway system reacted in 1.5 hours to my complaint in such a serious way, which was beyond my fondest hopes. The female chief conductor of the train called me and came to our compartment in order to understand the real situation. This middle-aged woman with black curly hair listened to my reasons for making the complaint with great patience. Her eyes had an earnest twinkle. It appeared that she cared about my words more than anyone else on the train.
After the chief conductor understood everything, she explained some reasons for the bad service that we got and apologized sincerely. She revealed that most train attendants are underpaid and the lad we had in this compartment was temporarily assigned so he didn’t really care about the passengers. The power supply was in extreme shortage at midnight. The electricity power wasn’t enough to keep up the lights, let alone broadcast further announcements about the delay. The train attendants did boil hot water. But there were too many people sitting on the aisle so they were afraid to scald the passengers if they moved hot water jugs from one compartment to another.
All these explanations sounded really reasonable. But weren’t they excuses? Now take a look at this insanely overloaded compartment. Everyone was not treated as a real passenger or a service buyer. We were like goods being transported in a big metal boxcar moving on wheels! This even reminded me of the inhuman treatment that the Jews got in WWII. Why did the train system sell overly excessive standing tickets when they knew clearly that the train service couldn’t accommodate this huge amount of passengers? If they set a reasonable upper limit on the number of the standing tickets they could sell, there would be far less passengers on this train. And everybody would be having a pleasant journey and getting basic on-board service! Basic train service was all we asked for for Confucius’s sake! Of course there would be passengers who couldn’t buy the standing tickets of this train if the railway system cut down on the amount of the tickets. Instead, they would rather travel by alternative transportation tools (such as long-distance buses) in order to take a comfortable and safe trip.
This Chinese poor people’s typical ordeal on a train could have been avoided if the railway system reduced the number of the standing tickets. This would mean less income for the railway system but it would be a really simple solution to this long-term conundrum that poor people in China always get poor train service during Spring Festival transport rush every year. Getting more money or taking care of passengers, these choices unfortunately never comes to the railway leaders’ mind when they make decisions, because they simply do not consider the railway system as part of the service industry. Now why would they care about these people from the lowest social class of China? They don’t complain. They just get off the train and get on another packed bus like sardines. They have got used to this packedness. So why bother?

Now let’s get back to our story and see what happened on the train after the chief conductor gave her sincerely worded explanations. She came to the occupied toilet and drove the 3 guys who occupied the toilet for the entire night out. Several train attendants carried 2 bottles of hot boiled water to our compartment very soon after the chief conductor gave her orders. The chief conductor also proposed that she will take out some measures in order to punish the train attendant who was supposed to serve the passengers in our compartment but did actually nothing. She suggested that she will decrease the train attendant’s salary for this month and ask him to write an apology letter and send it to my by fax as evidence for the punishment. This was getting really interesting! Nobody had ever written an apology letter to me so far. I would certainly frame it and hang it on my wall!
But the story didn’t end here. Astonishingly, the leader of Nanchang Railway Station, where the train set off from, gave me another apology phone call. This leader should be much more superior to the chief conductor. He used such a serious and hearty tone that it sounded like he was reporting to me. What he said was really not expected. He told me his anger with the train attendant in our compartment and he would just fire him and ask him to make a verbal apology in front of all the passengers in my compartment!
However, I didn’t make the complaint call in hope of that the train attendant would lose his job because some parts of my complaint were not totally his fault. But the leader of the railway station made such an abrupt decision and I can sense that he wanted to impress me with his strong willingness to make the passengers happy. I guess my complaint had been reported to the national railway system so the leader of the railway station had been reprehended by his superior officers. I guess he needed to get this complaint handled fast so he wouldn’t lose his opportunities of getting a future promotion or something.
At last, 3 minutes after the train arrived in Guangzhou East Railway Station, this irresponsible train attendant came reluctantly. He pretended to be ignorant of the passengers’ complaints against him. But after the chief conductor scolded him, he realized that there was no way out so he apologized to all the passengers and bowed. The passengers, mostly migrant workers, got excited because they never expected this kind of treatment. However, this should be the way how things are run in a service industry even in our highly populated China.
After all this, the chief conductor and the other leads required me to make a return call to the railway hotline to basically eulogize their ways of dealing with the complaint. This step of making a follow-up call must be designed by the National Railway System as a way to urge the train leaders to take actions and to keep them under surveillance. Then all the leaders shook hands with me and thanked me for “helping them to improve their service quality” before I got off the train. This was certainly an once-in-a-life-time experience for me.
I knew from that day that a complaint call can make a difference in China but certainly my call had been escalated to a certain level of management so that it could have this kind of exaggerated impact on the train staff.
Nevertheless, one thing did change in my mind. I started to understand the difference between ignoring these things and noticing them and not letting them go, even though I didn’t feel hopeful at the beginning.
Now I hope that the railway system can learn something from the Chinese army in terms of their attitude of serving the people if such an analogy stands.


This is a statue made of GRP created by Xu Hongfei in an effort to praise the Chinese army’s selfless spirit of serving the people. These 4 soldiers fell asleep while leaning against a railing during their short break when they were assigned to accommodate the passengers who got stuck in the railway stations after severe snowstorms left the railway system paralyzed in South China in 2008.
Now when will they set such a statue for train attendants? Let’s hope for the best while we have to tolerate the worst.
(Thanks for reading this article. All the photos used in the article were found online because photos were forbidden to be taken on this train after the complaint was made. This is an original article written by Adah Huang. Please contact the author before you cite the article. My email adress is litahzy@163.com.)





